Getting a toilet installation right doesn’t just look good on your plumbing résumé; it means fewer call-backs and a happier client. At the heart of a leak-free, sturdy toilet is the humble toilet flange. If you’ve found yourself wondering “how do you level a toilet flange?” you’re not alone. Even experienced plumbers occasionally run into wonky bathroom floors or damaged flanges that throw everything out of alignment.
This guide will walk you step-by-step through the process of leveling a toilet flange. You’ll find details on required tools and materials, foolproof prep, and troubleshooting tips that can save you both time and hassle on the job.
Why Leveling a Toilet Flange Matters
First things first, what’s a toilet flange and why is leveling it so crucial?
The toilet flange, also called a closet flange, is the pipe fitting that connects the toilet to the waste pipe below the floor. It sits on top of the finished floor and forms a stable base for the toilet. A perfectly level flange means:
- A proper seal: Prevent leaks and future water damage.
- A stable toilet: Say goodbye to wobbly toilets (and customer complaints).
- Smooth installation: Avoids cracked porcelain or stripped bolts.
Now, let’s walk through how to level a toilet flange like a pro.
Tools and Materials You’ll Need
Before you start, gather these essentials:
- Bubble level (torpedo level works well)
- Cordless drill/driver with bits
- Screwdriver (flathead and Phillips)
- Tapcon screws or flange bolts (appropriate for your subfloor)
- Wax ring or rubber gasket
- Shims (plastic or composite, never wood)
- Flange repair ring (if the existing one is damaged)
- Measuring tape
- Marker or pencil
- Safety gloves and eye protection
- Rag or towel (for cleanup)
- Putty knife
- Utility knife (for removing old wax)
- Shop vacuum (optional, but handy)
Step-By-Step Guide to a Level Toilet Flange
1. Preparation
Every good install starts with smart prep. Here’s how to get ready:
- Turn off the water supply to the toilet and disconnect the water line.
- Flush the toilet to drain as much water as possible.
- Remove the old toilet by loosening the mounting bolts. Lift carefully and set it aside on an old towel or drop cloth.
- Check the subfloor. Wipe up any standing water. Look for signs of rot, mold, or soft spots in the subflooring around the flange.
2. Evaluation
This part can save you a lot of headaches down the road. Here’s what to check:
- Is the existing flange damaged? Broken or rusted flanges won’t hold bolts tight and should be replaced or repaired using a flange repair ring.
- Is the flange above, below, or flush with the finished floor? Ideally, the top of the flange should sit 1/4 inch above the finished floor to ensure a good seal with the wax ring.
- Check for level. Place your bubble level across the flange (in both directions). It should be level front-to-back and side-to-side.
If the flange is not level, mark the high and low spots lightly with a pencil for reference.
3. Leveling Process
Now, onto the main event. There are several techniques to level a toilet flange, depending on the issue you’ve found.
A. If the Flange Is Uneven Due to the Subfloor
- Shim It:
- Clean the area around the flange.
- Place plastic or composite shims under the low side(s) of the flange until your bubble level shows it’s even all the way around.
- Double-check for stability by pressing down gently on the flange.
- Trim any shim material that sticks out with a utility knife.
B. If the Flange Sits Too High or Low
- Too High (More than 1/2 inch): Consider recessing the flange slightly. If the floor is being tiled or raised, install the finished floor first or use an offset flange.
- Too Low (Flush or below floor level): Use a toilet flange extender or extra-thick wax ring. Install according to manufacturer instructions. If possible, use two extenders (stackable) for a snug fit.
C. Damaged or Broken Flange
- Use a Repair Ring: Position the repair ring over the broken flange, aligning bolt slots. Secure it with screws into the subfloor. Some styles fit both plastic and cast iron flanges.
- Replace the Flange: If repairs won’t cut it, remove the old flange and install a new one at the correct height and level.
4. Securing the Flange
Once the flange is perfectly level:
- Drill pilot holes for flange screws through the mounting holes and into the subfloor. Use Tapcon screws if securing into concrete, or wood screws for wood subfloor.
- Tighten the screws evenly. Start with a gentle hand and alternate sides to keep the flange from shifting off-level.
- Double-check the level before fully tightening.
- Vacuum any debris from the interior of the flange and around the work area.
Now, install a new wax ring (or rubber gasket), set the toilet, and secure the mounting bolts.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Every plumber hits snags from time to time. Here are the errors you’ll want to steer clear of when leveling a toilet flange:
- Using wood shims: These can rot if exposed to moisture. Always pick plastic or composite shims.
- Not checking both directions with the level: A flange may appear level side-to-side but not front-to-back.
- Skipping subfloor repair: An uneven or deteriorating subfloor can undo your careful leveling.
- Overtightening the flange screws: This can crack plastic flanges or strip bolt holes.
- Improper flange height: A flange set too low leads to leaks. Too high can leave the toilet unstable and prone to rocking.
- Neglecting the wax ring: A bad seal causes slow leaks and water damage.
Why Getting the Toilet Flange Level is Worth the Effort
A perfectly level toilet flange is the foundation for every successful installation. It prevents leaks, minimizes wobble, and helps your work last the test of time (not to mention making your future self’s job easier on the next call).
Paying attention to details like proper shimming, flange height, and securing methods saves you money, client frustration, and repeat jobs. Plumbers who consistently deliver leveled, sturdy installations earn a reputation for quality work.
If you’re troubleshooting or dealing with tricky floors, remember the fundamentals covered in this guide. They’re the difference between a “good enough” job and a five-star review from your client.